Chemical management

Chemicals are part of textile manufacturing, but not all chemicals used are safe. What are these chemicals and how do we manage their use?

Chemicals are part of textile manufacturing, a dye is a chemical, and chemicals are used to clean the fabrics and transform textile components. However, not all chemicals used are safe for the people handling them or for our skin. Thanks to the work of activists and NGOs, campaigns like the Greenpeace Detox Campaign have brought attention to the use of harmful chemicals in the textile industry. Additionally, new studies have shown the toxicity of certain chemicals, found in many everyday products, chemicals that can sometimes pollute our ecosystems forever.

What are the main types of chemicals raising concerns?

1. Azo Dyes (and Azo Compounds)

Use: Synthetic dyes in colored textiles.
Risk: Some release carcinogenic aromatic amines, especially when in contact with skin.

2. Formaldehyde

Use: Used to make fabrics wrinkle-resistant and retain shape.
Risk: Can cause skin irritation, respiratory problems, and is a possible carcinogen.

3. Perfluorinated Compounds (PFCs / PFAS)

Use: Water, stain, and oil repellents (e.g., in outerwear or performance gear).
Risk: Linked to hormone disruption, cancer, and environmental persistence.

4. Phthalates

Use: Found in plastisol prints (e.g., on graphic T-shirts) and some synthetic materials.
Risk: Known endocrine disruptors, possibly harmful to reproductive health.

5. Nonylphenol Ethoxylates (NPEs)

Use: Detergents and surfactants in textile processing.
Risk: Break down into nonylphenol, a toxic and persistent hormone disruptor.

6. Heavy Metals (e.g., Lead, Cadmium, Chromium VI)

Use: Dyes, pigments, leather tanning (especially chromium VI).
Risk: Neurotoxicity, organ damage, and cancer.

7. Flame Retardants

Use: Applied to children’s sleepwear and some outerwear to meet fire safety standards.
Risk: Some are linked to endocrine disruption, developmental toxicity, and cancer.

8. Pesticide Residues

Use: Present in non-organic cotton due to heavy pesticide use during cultivation.
Risk: Linked to skin allergies, respiratory issues, and long-term exposure problems.

9. Solvents (e.g., Toluene, Benzene)

Use: Used in dyes, printing, and finishes.
Risk: Toxic when inhaled or absorbed; linked to neurological and reproductive issues.

European flags in front of EU commission

How do we minimize the risk

Laws and certifications

In Europe, the REACH regulation controls the use of chemicals used in all products sold in the EU, to protect human health. It can ban or restrict harmful chemicals. However, not all chemicals of concerns are banned yet, it's hard to control all imported clothing, and since REACH applies to many types of products, textiles might not always be the top priority. That's where certifications can be helpful.

Global Organic Textiles Standard (GOTS)
GOTS has a very strict Restricted Substance List, wet processing units (dyeing, printing, washing etc) are only allowed to use chemicals from an approved list. GOTS requirements go beyond legal standards and forbid the Hazardous Chemical Groups identified by Greenpeace international. If you want to read more about the control of chemical in GOTS goods, read here their fact sheet.

All the harmful chemicals listed above are prohibited in the manufacturing of GOTS goods.

Most of our organic cotton products are certified GOTS or follow GOTS requirements. We also refer to GOTS chemical requirements in our own chemical policy for other fibers when it is applicable.

Global Recycled Standard (GRS)
All products manufactured under the GRS requirements must meet the following criteria:

1. Exclusion of inherently problematic substances that are classified as dangerous to human health and/or to the environment by REACH.

2. Exclusion of substances and mixtures classified with particular hazard codes or risk phrases (as per GRS Standard 4.0)

3. Exclusion of substances that do not comply with ZDHC’s Manufacturer’s Restricted Substance List (MRSL).

All the harmful chemicals listed above are prohibited either by REACH, or the ZDHC MRSL, and therefore prohibited in the manufacturing of GRS fabrics and goods.

All our recycled polyester and recycled nylon products are manufactured under GRS requirements.

Our chemical management procedure

Working with certified fabrics and products is our primary way to minimize risk. But to be more proactive, we also have a chemical management procedure, which must be read and signed by our suppliers:

1. Source certified materials and that suppliers work with certified dyeing and printing units

2. Explicitly explain our chemical policy to our suppliers, including (Manufacturing) Restricted Substance Lists ((M)RSL) - which are lists of prohibited chemicals during the manufacturing process and in the final fabric or product. Both our finished products and the dyring and printing units have to sign our policy.

3. Run risk assessments every season to check if any new fabric could be at risk of containing harmful chemicals.

4. Require lab tests on the dyed and printed fabrics that are at risk.